Happy Harvesting!

Last weekend Tyler and I agreed we both needed a fun, relaxing two days off, so we made the decision to head to the west.  Western Wisconsin, that is!  Tyler grew up a small town in south western Wisconsin that is located on the Wisconsin River called Muscoda.  I love the drive from Madison out to Muscoda (or anywhere in south western Wisconsin) especially this time of year.  The rolling hills in that part of the state are beautifully decorated with bright and colorful fall foliage.  This weekend was no different; the trees were deep shades of red, orange, and yellow, which perfectly accented the bright blue sky.  Just observing the views as we ventured out to Muscoda was enough to melt away most of the stressors from the week.

But there was an ulterior motive for our trek to the west.  Wine!  Most of you who know me are not surprised by this exclamation.  But this time of year is harvest time for the wineries in Wisconsin and around the United States, and I love to be a part of this happy, happy harvest time. 

One of our favorite wineries in the area, Spurgeon Winery, which located only a few miles outside of Muscoda, was having their annual Harvest Fest.  This celebration includes free wine tasting, tours of the facility, tram rides through the vineyards, live music, and great food.  And of course, wine by the glass and bottle.  And like always, I love knowing the history behind one of my favorite past times. 

History:

Wisconsin in particular has a long history of wine making. In fact, one could argue that the origins of the American wine industry are firmly rooted in the rich soil of the Badger State. In the early 1840s, a Hungarian immigrant named Agoston Haraszthy established a vineyard, winery and wine cellars overlooking the Wisconsin River at what is today the Wollersheim Winery in Sauk City. Haraszthy went on to establish some of the first successful vineyards in Sonoma, California.

The many German settlers who came to Wisconsin in the 1800s also brought with them their wine making skills, producing versions of traditional German wines as well as new varieties made from North America’s own native grapes. Those early winemakers found that growing traditional European grapes in Wisconsin can be a difficult endeavor.

However, using ingenuity, experimentation and perseverance, Wisconsin winemakers learned to cultivate several special varieties of grapes that are well-suited to the Wisconsin climate. In addition, winemakers learned to utilize the many fruits that could be grown in the state. In time, a number of Wisconsin grape and fruit wines were born.

Harvest 101:
The period culminating in grape crush begins when the grapes start to change color in mid to late summer. The actual picking of the grapes usually happens between August and November above the equator and February to April below. What happens in between is the greatest determinant of a wine's quality in a given vintage.

The Metamorphosis—Veraison:Grape ripening begins with the growth period known as veraison, when the fruit hanging on the vines transforms from small, green, hard berries into what we recognize as grapes. Vines enter this stage about 30 to 70 days, depending on variety and climate, after fruit set (when fertilized flowers have fallen off and become tiny grape bunches)—typically in July or August in the Northern Hemisphere and January or February in the Southern.

During veraison, the grapes lose their bright green color and begin to take on mature hues—from greenish yellow for some white varieties to red, purple or almost black for red varieties. The grapes also soften and rapidly increase in size as the vine begins to pump sugars into the fruit, while acidity starts to decrease. Veraison doesn’t happen at the same time throughout a vineyard, or even for all grapes on a vine or within an individual bunch; those exposed to more sun and warmth get a head start on the grapes in shadier, cooler areas.

Striking a Balance—Controlling Crop Size:

Unlike most farmers, top grape growers generally seek to limit their yields. That's right: They want less of the thing they're going to sell. Why? Because they believe that if the vine is carrying fewer bunches than it is capable of, those grapes will ripen more fully and be higher in quality.

If a crop looks to be too large at veraison, or if ripening has been delayed due to poor weather, a grower will sometimes thin the crop, or conduct a "green harvest.” Vineyard workers cut unripe bunches from the vines; in theory, each vine's resources are then devoted to the remaining bunches, speeding ripening.

On the other hand, a grower doesn’t want too many leaves per grape bunch. Leaves look pretty, but they can get between the grapes and the sun; too much shade can also promote rot and mildew on bunches. If the weather has been particularly cool, cloudy or damp, growers may remove leaves around the grapes to promote ripening and air circulation.

Pest Busting—Protecting the Crop:
Along with the threat of poor weather, grapevines face harassment from various organisms—insects, mildew, rot, other fungi, bacteria and viruses—that can damage fruit, reduce yields or even kill the vines. And just as the grapes ripen come the birds—and deer, bear, wild boar and other hungry animals.

What can be done to protect the vines? Among other things, growers can apply pesticides and fungicides (ranging from copper and sulfur to synthetics), control the canopy of leaves so that wind can dry moisture on the grapes and attract natural predators like bats, insect-eating birds and beneficial insects that eat the vine pests.

Strong fences can keep out four-legged animals, but not the airborne. For flocks of birds, who like a tasty Cabernet as much as anyone, the heavy artillery is wheeled out. Some vignerons shell out to cover all their vines with bird nets, or hire falconers to patrol vineyards with birds of prey. Others rely on bird bombs and bird cannons. Don't call PETA just yet: These devices don't actually blast the suckers out of the sky, they merely fire off loud booms that scare birds away.

Whew, what a process!  I'm glad this time I was able to relax, enjoy the company, and most of all...enjoy the wine!  Happy Harvesting!!