Monday, December 19, 2011

What Came First - Christmas or the Eggnog?


We all know this time of year is associated with many interesting holiday traditions, whether it be food, drink, or decorations.  During December many of us enjoy hot apple cider, hot cocoa, and of course, eggnog!  But what really is eggnog and why do we drink it around this time of year?

What is Eggnog?
Eggnog is a sweetened, dairy-based beverage, traditionally made with milk, and/or cream, sugar, beaten eggs (hello salmonella!), and liquor.  Usually the liquor used in eggnog is either brandy, rum or whiskey.  The finished serving is usually topped with a sprinkling of ground cinnamon and/or nutmeg.

The History of Eggnog
The actual origins and ingredients that were used to make the first eggnog drink are still debated.

One story claims that Eggnog may have originated in East Anglia, England; or it may have simply developed from posset, a medieval European beverage made with hot milk.  The "nog" part of its name may stem from the word "noggin", a Middle English term used to describe a small, carved wooden mug used to serve alcohol.  However, the British drink was also called an Egg Flip (from the practice of "flipping" (rapidly pouring) the mixture between two pitchers to mix it).

Another story is that the term derived from "egg and grog", a common Colonial term used for the drink made with rum. Eventually that term was shortened to "egg'n'grog", then "eggnog".

In Britain, the drink was popular mainly among the aristocracy; dairy products and eggs were rarely consumed by the lower classes due to their high cost and the lack of refrigeration.  Those who could get milk and eggs mixed it with brandy, Madeira or sherry to make a drink similar to modern alcoholic egg nog.

The drink crossed the Atlantic to the English colonies during the 18th century. Since brandy and wine were heavily taxed, rum from the Triangular Trade with the Caribbean was a cost-effective substitute.  The inexpensive liquor, coupled with plentiful farm and dairy products, helped the drink become very popular in America.  When the supply of rum to the newly-founded United States was reduced as a consequence of the American Revolutionary War, Americans turned to domestic whiskey, and eventually bourbon in particular, as a substitute.

Why Eggnog for Christmas?  The Story Goes a Little Like This...
Christmas of 1826 was snowy, cold and lonely for the cadets of West Point. Though called "men" they were really teenage boys - some as young as 17 - and they wanted to celebrate Christmas. Young Jefferson Davis, future president of the Confederate States of America, was amongst them.

But West Point then, as it is now, was a house of order and discipline. The military academy was under the strictest orders of sobriety that Christmas season. And being young men some took it upon themselves to challenge those orders in the name of holiday celebration. They organized and they partied.

During excused absences the men of West Point would visit area taverns and drink grog - a mix of alcoholic spirits and spices whose many differing recipes came over from the Old World of England in those post-revolutionary times. But for their clandestine Christmas celebration of 1826 they sought to make eggnog - a creamy mixture of typical grog ingredients combined with milk, cream and eggs. Military tradition had passed down rumors of a fancy for the drink from George Washington himself, whose stiff recipe challenged even the heartiest drinker. It was the seasonal tradition of Christmas in colonial America and for these boys it was a sentimental taste of home.

Carefully they planned their party. The ingredients were brought in under cover of darkness, at varying times and by the hands of several individuals. On Christmas Eve they posted guards to look out for watchful superior officers, blackened their windows and began mixing their eggnog. Their party proceeded unnoticed until 4:30 in the morning when the effects of their celebration started to take effect rather noisily. By that point keeping the officers from noticing was impossible. What ensued thereafter has come to be known in legend as the Eggnog Riot. One cadet ended up facing murder charges by the time it was said and done. Six others resigned and 19 others were court martialed. And many, including Jefferson Davis, received the punishment of being confined to quarters for more than a month.

But many, even some of those expelled from the academy, expressed no regret for their involvement in the event. It was after all Christmas. And it was, after all, only eggnog.

Eggnog was one of the most common holiday traditions of Colonial America. Before there were Christmas trees, before there was Santa Claus, and long before there was ever a national holiday called Christmas there was the annual tradition of eggnog. 

George Washington's Eggnog
He was famous, especially after the Revolutionary War, for holding festive Christmas gatherings featuring his unique brand of eggnog.

2 cups brandy
1 cup rye whiskey
1 cup dark Jamaica rum
1/2 cup cream sherry
8 extra large eggs OR 10 large eggs
3/4 cup sugar
1 quart milk
1 quart heavy cream
1 teaspoon fresh ground nutmeg
1 cinnamon stick

1.) Mix liquors first in a separate container. Separate yolks and whites into two large mixing bowls. Blanchir egg yolks (beat adding in sugar until the mixture turns a light yellow). Add liquor slowly to egg yolk mixture, continuing to beat (mixture will turn brown) until well incorporated. Add milk and cream simultaneously, slowly beating the mixture. Set aside.

2.) Beat whites of eggs until stiff and fold slowly into the alcohol mixture. Add nutmeg and cinnamon stick, and stir well to incorporate. Cover mixture in an airtight container.

3.) Allow egg nog to cure undisturbed for several days (4-7) in the coldest part of the refrigerator, or outside in a very cold (below 40 degrees) place. The mixture will separate as it cures. Before serving cold, re-incorporate the mixture and enjoy! 

Eggnog - A Lighter Version
Try this sophisticated and safe low-fat version of the classic eggnog, with half the calories!

6 cups milk (1%)
1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
2 large eggs
2/3 cup sugar
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup brandy, bourbon or rum
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1/4 cup light whipping cream

1.) Bring milk and nutmeg to a simmer in a heavy medium saucepan over low heat, stirring occasionally.

2.) Whisk eggs, sugar, flour and salt in a large bowl until smooth. Whisking constantly, gradually add hot milk; return mixture to saucepan.

3.) Cook the eggnog over very low heat, stirring constantly, until thick enough to coat the back of the spoon, 10 to 15 minutes. (Temperature must reach 160°F; do not let eggnog come to a simmer.) Remove from the heat and pour through a fine-meshed sieve into a bowl.

4.) Whisk in brandy (or bourbon or rum) and vanilla. Place a piece of plastic wrap directly on the surface of the eggnog and refrigerate until chilled, for at least 8 hours or overnight.

5.) Just before serving, add cream to eggnog. Ladle into cups and serve garnished with more grated nutmeg. 

Calories: 142 kcal
Fat: 4g

Traditional Eggnog:
Calories: 300 kcal
Fat: 20g   

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