Spring Into Summer!

The spring roll we have all become accustumed to seeing on local menus throughout Madison, even at non-Asian restaurants, have a surprising illustrious history.  They evolved from ceremonial "spring cakes" taken to ancient Chinese temples to welcome spring and its vegetables, as well as to honor ancestors.  Cantonese and Shanghai versions evolved, and spring rolls caught on throughout other nations in southeastern Asia.

Now, Wisconsin cooks are putting their own spins on the classic appetizer.  Chef Paul Tseng, who teaches classes on making spring rolls at Willy Street Co-op, said spring rolls aren't just about spring.  Their perfect vehicles for using whatever produce is in season.  Community supported agriculture (CSA) baskets provide a great chance to experiment with spring rolls. 

Mai Zong Vue knows well how eager people are to devour spring rolls.  Vue, who is Hmong, has made countless spring rolls in her lifetime.  She previously owned a Madison restaurant and a community kitchen on the city's North Side.  She explained that Hmung spring rolls have a different texture than those of other ethnic groups becuase the vegetables used are sliced in relatively large pieces, rather than shredded, and bean sprouts aren't used.  They also are served with a fiery homemade sauce made of lime juice, hot chilis and fish sauce.

Traditional egg rolls are either deep fried or just wrapped in rice paper.  To make the non-fried version, a piece of rice paper is dipped in boiling water for about eight seconds, then placed on a flat surface, filled with desired ingredients and folded into a little package.  The wrappers remain pliable for up to about three minutes.  Lettuce leaves are sometimes used instead of rice paper.

Vue has a few pieces of advice for those of you who would like to venture into the world of spring-roll making.  One: experiment with rice papers, because some are drier than others and it takes practice to see how long they should be dipped in water.  Two: make your spring rolls with tender loving care.  If you're in a rush, don't make spring rolls.  If your making a dozen, give yourself thirty to forty-five minutes.

Egg roll wrappers can also be used to make spring rolls, and they hold up well when fried.  You have to make sure the wrappers are completely sealed, otherwise the oil gets into the filling and makes it soggy, and the roll will fall apart.  The trick to successful frying is making sure the oil is hot, between 350 and 375 degrees F, and a deep, slender pot is used. 

Ideally, spring rolls should be eaten immdediately after they are made.  If that's not an option, spring rolls that haven't been fried can be covered with a damp towel for up to two hours.  The longer they sit, the more the quality deteriorates.  Like spring, they're not around for long!!

Savory Spring Roll
8 oz shrimp, chicken breast, or tofu, julienned and cooked (marinade recipes below)

2 oz bean sprouts, blanched

2 scallions, minced
2 oz shitake mushrooms, julienned
1 small red pepper, julienned
1/2 oz garlic, minced
4 oz napa cabbage, julienned
1/2 oz ginger, minced
1 tsp sesame oil
salt and pepper to taste
15 to 20 rice paper wrapper

1.)  Mix together first 9 ingredients and season with salt and pepper to taste.
2.)  One at a time, dip a piece of rice paper in boiling water for 5-8 seconds and quickly fill with 1/2 a handful of the mixture in the middle and fold one edge over the ingredients, fold up on the sides, then finish rolling it.  Serve immediately with dipping sauce (recipes below).


Marinade For Chicken Or Shrimp
1 tbsp cooking oil
1/2 tbsp soy sauce
1 tsp rice, red, sherry, or Shaoxing wine
Salt and pepper to taste
8 oz chicken or shrimp, julienned

1.) Head a saute pan and add cooking oil, soy sauce, wine, salt and pepper.  When the mixture is heated, add chicken or shrimp and saute.

Marinade For Tofu

1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

3 tbsp soy sauce
1 tbsp dijon mustard
1/2 tbsp vinegar
8 oz firm tofu, cut into 1/2 inch thick slices

1.) Put first 4 ingredients in saute pan.  Braise the tofu on both sides in the pan until the flavors are well-absorbed.

Garlic And Vinegar Dipping Sauce
1 red chili, roasted and minced
2 cloves of garlic, minced
2 tbsp sugar or honey
4 tbsp rice or balsamic vinegar
Thai or sweet basil, julienned
Salt to taste

1.)  Mix all ingredients well.

Ginger-Soy Dipping Sauce
2 oz ginger, finely minced
2 oz soy sauce
1 clove garlic, minced
Juice of 1 lemon or lime

1.) Mix all ingredients well.

**For for info, check out: http://host.madison.com/entertainment/dining/spring-it-on-fresh-is-best-when-making-spring-rolls/article_11f634a0-b0bc-11e1-b5d7-0019bb2963f4.html**